Paulie D., the Christmas Bird

We’ve all heard the Christmas songs about animals:

“Chrissy, the Christmas Mouse,” who lives in the bottom of Santa’s house. “Rudolph the Red-Nose Reindeer,” who guided Santa on that foggy Christmas Eve, and “Dominick the Donkey,” who can climb the hills of Italy. That’s just a few.

I have a story about a Christmas bird, named Paulie D. (not to be confused with the actor, please). Paulie D. bird is a mitred conure that was hatched on July 15, 1999 at a bird ranch in Colorado. We named him “Paulie” because he is almost the same type of conure that starred in the movie “Paulie” (although that bird had a blue head). The movie was about a “talking bird” that was searching for his owner who he was separated from when she was a child. Never mind, let’s not get into that now. The “D” comes from a famous actor. Anyway, my Paulie D was transported for sale to the PETCO at Union Square in New York City some time during the fall of 1999 and was living in a cage with about 10 other birds where he aggressively ruled the feathered flock.

In mid December of that year one Friday evening while on our way to the Park Avenue Café, we went into the PETCO in Union Square and visited the aviary section. We noticed “Paulie D” and thought he was a good-looking bird (he is – see photo). He was mostly green with cherry red patch on his forecrown, lores, cheeks and sides of the neck. He had a little dusting of red speckles on his green chest, and dark green, shiny wings. Since I love birds, my companion asked if I wanted him. I said, “no.”

On December 23 and one week later, Paulie D. was hand-delivered in a cardboard box with holes punched out all over it. “Paulie’s in the box.” And he was. We set up his cage, and then played Frank Sinatra songs while the bird sang—well, not really.

I kept Paulie D. with me until Memorial Day, when we transported him to my friend’s house, which was much larger then my tiny apartment. Since I was there virtually every weekend, I saw Paulie D. constantly and played with him all the time. His cage was in the kitchen, and he liked watching me cook and I always enjoyed giving him fresh peppers, snow peas, or peanuts (the bird, that is).

Then almost one year later, on the Saturday morning after Thanksgiving, the bird started flapping his wings profusely and trying to fly “in the cage.” He then fell to the bottom of the cage and was stilled in a “stargazing” stance. He looked almost paralyzed. Since we couldn’t figure it out, we decided to bring him to a local vet. Local vets in my town don’t typically treat “exotic” birds. That’s what Paulie D is considered. Exotic? Like the actor? The vet couldn’t figure out what was wrong with the bird, and suggested that we take him to the Animal Medical Center in New York City, the largest animal hospital in the U.S.

So we brought Paulie D. to the hospital in New York. After a series of tests and extracting blood from him (and more than $400 later), the doctor prescribed a medication that we picked up at the pet pharmacy at the hospital.

Twice every day, Paulie D. was wrapped in a blanket and fed via a bottle just like a baby. As the week progressed, his condition became worse.

Then on the morning of Christmas Eve, Paulie D was lying on the bottom of his cage. We thought it was over. We moved him out of his cage into his carrying case and brought him to the back bedroom so he could “rest.” We left that afternoon for a Christmas Eve dinner and thought that when we returned, he would be dead.

After we arrived home later that evening, we walked into the back room and heard noises coming from the case. Paulie D. was moving around, eating seeds, and drinking water. Later, we moved him back into his cage and, although he was still a bit week, he was alive. Ah, the miracle of Christmas. Since he was a Christmas gift and his colors are red and green, he will always be the “Christmas Bird” (also known as Paulie D)

Eight years later, he is still alive and doing very well! He likes to scream, chirp, bark (yes, bark—dogs live in the apartment downstairs), and loves doo whop music. Also, he still sings to Frank Sinatra songs—not really.

Merry Christmas to all the Christmas animals!

SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEFS - TUNA TARTARE, RATATOUILLE, COQ AU VIN

A few weeks ago, I attended a book signing at the Borders bookstore in Columbus Circle and met up close and personal several of my favorite chefs – Daniel Boulud, Tom Keller, and Eric Ripert. All are four-star chefs and were featured in the recently released book, “My Last Supper” by photographer Melanie Dunea. It’s an interesting book for the food person (aka “foodie”) who has (just about) everything. Fifty chefs are photographed and discuss what their last meal would be. http://www.amazon.com/My-Last-Supper-Portraits-Interviews/dp/1596912871/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1197401250&sr=1-1

I sat in the front row and across the table from where Ms. Dunea, the chefs and the moderator, Mr. Friedman, were seated. Having all of their cookbooks, which have been used profusely, it was thrilling to be seated right across from such talented individuals. Two of my other favorite chefs, Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Anthony Bourdain, were not present at the book signing but are also featured in the book.

Prior to the panel discussion, Mr. Friedman asked us to write on index cards what our last supper would be. I selected Eric’s Tuna Tartare; Tom Keller’s Ratatouille (aka Confit Byaldi); and Daniel Boulud’s Coq au Vin. After the formal panel discussion was over, Mr. Friedman started to read the audience choices for their last supper. Mine was the first one he read. Each chef smiled and thanked me for selecting “their” dishes. Chef Boulud said they were good choices and suggested that I add the “killer chocolate” from London that Ms. Dunea talked about during the discussion. Several audience members did not provide “serious” answers or their names. For example, one person wrote that their last supper would be a naked man covered with chocolate syrup. Well, I guess that is a serious answer, as I think about it again.

ASIAN TUNA TARTARE - CHEF RIPERT
1/4 cup corn oil
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 pound sushi-grade tuna
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon minced jalapeño
1 1/2 teaspoons wasabi powder
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
1 tablespoon finely chopped scallion
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus half a lemon
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tomato--peeled, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch dice
20 best-quality potato chips
In a bowl, combine the corn oil and ginger and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. Strain the oil. With a very sharp knife, cut the tuna into 1/8-inch dice. In a large bowl, combine the tuna with 3 tablespoons of the ginger oil, 3 tablespoons of the cilantro and the jalapeño, wasabi, sesame seeds, scallion and lemon juice. Mix gently and season with salt and pepper. Stand a 1 1/2-inch-tall and 2 1/4-inch-round mold or a biscuit cutter in the center of a salad plate. Fill the mold with tuna tartare, pressing gently. Lift off the mold. Repeat with the remaining tartare. Drizzle the remaining ginger oil around each tartare and sprinkle with the tomato, the remaining tablespoon of cilantro and a squeeze of lemon juice. Stand 5 potato chips in a circular pattern in each tartare and serve immediately. Recipe from Le Bernardin Cookbook: Four-Star Simplicity http://www.amazon.com/Bernardin-Cookbook-Four-Star-Simplicity/dp/0385488416/ref=pd_sim_b_title_2

CONFIT BYALDI (aka RATATOUILLE) - CHEF KELLER

This recipe appeared in the July 13, 2007 issue of “The New York Times” in a story about Tom Keller and his dish called “Confit Byaldi” (aka “Ratatouille”). http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9505E0D8173FF930A25755C0A9619C8B63&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=2

For Piperade
1/2 red pepper, seeds and ribs removed
1/2 yellow pepper, seeds and ribs removed
1/2 orange pepper, seeds and ribs removed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup finely diced yellow onion
3 tomatoes (about 12 ounces total weight), peeled, seeded, and finely diced, juices reserved
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig flat-leaf parsley
1/2 a bay leaf
Kosher salt

For Vegetables
1 zucchini (4 to 5 ounces) sliced in 1/16-inch rounds
1 Japanese eggplant, (4 to 5 ounces) sliced into 1/16-inch rounds
1 yellow squash (4 to 5 ounces) sliced into 1/16-inch rounds
4 Roma tomatoes, sliced into 1/16-inch rounds

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/8 teaspoon thyme leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Assorted fresh herbs (thyme flowers, chervil, thyme)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

For piperade, heat oven to 450 degrees. Place pepper halves on a foil-lined sheet, cut side down. Roast until skin loosens, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest until cool enough to handle. Peel and chop finely. Combine oil, garlic, and onion in medium skillet over low heat until very soft but not browned, about 8 minutes. Add tomatoes, their juices, thyme, parsley, and bay leaf. Simmer over low heat until very soft and very little liquid remains, about 10 minutes, do not brown; add peppers and simmer to soften them. Season to taste with salt, and discard herbs. Reserve tablespoon of mixture and spread remainder in bottom of an 8-inch skillet.

For vegetables, heat oven to 275 degrees. Down center of pan, arrange a strip of 8 alternating slices of vegetables over piperade, overlapping so that 1/4 inch of each slice is exposed. Around the center strip, overlap vegetables in a close spiral that lets slices mound slightly toward center. Repeat until pan is filled; all vegetables may not be needed. Mix garlic, oil, and thyme leaves in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle over vegetables. Cover pan with foil and crimp edges to seal well. Bake until vegetables are tender when tested with a paring knife, about 2 hours. Uncover and bake for 30 minutes more. (Lightly cover with foil if it starts to brown.) If there is excess liquid in pan, place over medium heat on stove until reduced. (At this point it may be cooled, covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Serve cold or reheat in 350-degree oven until warm.)

For vinaigrette, combine reserved piperade, oil, vinegar, herbs, and salt and pepper to taste in a bowl. To serve, heat broiler and place byaldi underneath until lightly browned. Slice in quarters and very carefully lift onto plate with offset spatula. Turn spatula 90 degrees, guiding byaldi into fan shape. Drizzle vinaigrette around plate. Serve hot.
http://www.amazon.com/French-Laundry-Cookbook-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579651267/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1198168419&sr=1-1

COQ AU VIN - CHEF BOULUD
I modified this recipe slightly, using a chicken in lieu of a rooster and turkey bacon (Sorry, Chef).

For Marinating
1 750-ml bottle Red Burgundy
1 large onion, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 large carrot, peeled, sliced

1 large garlic clove, peeled, flattened

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 chicken legs and 4 chicken thighs

For Cooking

1 tablespoon olive oil

Turkey bacon cut crosswise into strips

3 tablespoons flour

2 shallots, chopped

2 cloves of garlic, minced

4 large fresh thyme sprigs

4 large fresh parsley sprigs

2 bay leaves

2 cups chicken free range chicken broth
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

1 pound assorted fresh mushrooms
1 pound of one-inch pearl onions, or boiling onions, peeled
Chopped fresh parsley

Combine wine, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and peppercorns in large pot. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 5 minutes. Cool completely; mix in oil. Place chicken pieces in large glass bowl. Pour wine mixture over chicken; stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 2 days, turning chicken occasionally.

Transfer chicken pieces from marinade to paper towels to drain; pat dry. Strain marinade; reserve vegetables and liquid separately.

Heat oil in heavy large pot (wide enough to hold chicken in single layer) over medium-high heat. Add bacon and sauté until crisp and brown. Transfer bacon to small bowl. Add chicken, skin side down, to drippings in pot. Sauté until brown, about 8 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to large bowl. Add vegetables reserved from marinade to pot. Sauté until brown, about 10 minutes. Mix in flour; stir 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in reserved marinade liquid. Bring to boil, whisking frequently. Cook until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 2 minutes. Mix in shallots, garlic, herb sprigs, and bay leaves, then broth. Return chicken to pot, arranging skin side up in single layer. Bring to simmer; reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pot and simmer chicken 30 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken over. Cover and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat.
Add mushrooms; sauté until tender, about 8 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to plate. Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet. Add onions and sauté until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer onions to plate alongside mushrooms; reserve skillet.
Using tongs, transfer chicken to plate.

Strain sauce from pot into reserved skillet, pressing on solids in strainer to extract all sauce; discard solids. Bring sauce to simmer, scraping up browned bits. Return sauce to pot. Add onions to pot and bring to simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until onions are almost tender, about 8 minutes. Add mushrooms and bacon. Simmer uncovered until onions are very tender and sauce is slightly reduced, about 12 minutes. Spoon off excess fat from top of sauce. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Spoon sauce and vegetables over chicken. Sprinkle with parsley.

http://www.amazon.com/Daniel-Bouluds-Cafe-Boulud-Cookbook/dp/068486343X/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1198168062&sr=

Shopping in Hell

About a month ago, I saw a write-up about “Food Shopping in Hell” on a website called The City Cook (www.thecitycook.com). It’s a great website that offers information about anything and everything for home cooks in New York City (the City). The article discussed a number of the food stores located on 9th Avenue behind the Port Authority Bus Terminal, which is in the middle of Hell’s Kitchen.

Actually, a friend who grew up in the City introduced me to the food markets on 9th Avenue about ten years ago. Since then, I shopped in that area for many years—more so when I worked in the City (I’m from Joisey—I know, part of the “bridge and tunnel crowd”—but, not really). During that time, my mode of transportation to and from work was via the bus at the Port Authority. And having worked most of my career in the City, I’ve become so accustomed to virtually everything that it has to offer and now frequently go there to shop or to dine or to shop or to dine, or to shop. Recently, I resumed shopping in the City more frequently and have become spoiled that I don’t want to shop anywhere else!

Typically, my “Shopping in Hell” consists of a trip to several of the stores that have been there for close to a hundred (if not, more) years. One of my favorite 9th Avenue locales is Esposito’s Meat Market for poultry products. Last Saturday, I bought some plump duck legs, which I transformed into an Asian duck confit (sort of) on Sunday. After the butcher, it was off to the International Grocer for some spices sold loose by the half-ounce, ounce, pound, or whatever; robust coffee beans in any flavor imaginable, also sold loose by the pound; and a variety of oils from around the world. A few sacks of spices, rice, coffee, and a tin of oil almost always complete that stop for me. Next, it’s the Sea Breeze Fish Market, which carries a wide variety and some of the freshest seafood around, and I could never leave that place empty-handed, so I carried some fresh skate under my arm upon leaving that store (again for Sunday’s meal). I asked the fishmonger to pack it in ice, although it would have held up well to the 32-degree temperature outside. Finally, I ventured into Stile’s Farmers Market, where I was taken aback by the prices of produce. I purchased fresh red peppers, yellow peppers, romaine lettuce, carrots, scallions, garlic, celery, onions and jalapeños – and a bottle of Italian balsamic vinegar – all for under $10. The toll to get through the tunnel is worth it (remember, I’m from Joisey). When my companion asked me which place I preferred—Stile’s Market on 9th Avenue or the Union Square Green Market, which I visited two weeks prior—my response was that it is a tough choice and similar to asking a parent which child they preferred. I couldn’t answer that question.

All of that “Shopping in Hell” made us hungry. Where should we eat? Since it was 3:30 p.m., and many restaurants were closed between lunch and dinner service at that time, there was only one place that immediately came into my mind—“Tony’s place.” Well, that’s what I call Les Halles, one of my favorite restaurants that I wrote about in October. Since Les Halles has service non-stop, it was a perfect time to visit for a “quick” bite. We ventured to Park Avenue South—out of Hell’s Kitchen to “dine.”

And the food was great, as always. I ordered my traditional favorite amuse of escargot in garlic butter, and a café platter, which consisted of duck confit shredded in duck jus, truffle oil, mushroom puree, mashed potatoes and fresh herbs. My companion ordered sautéed foie gras with apple, walnuts and Calvados sauce and a rib eye steak. A bottle of Cotes de Francs, red Bordeaux accompanied the meal—which worked well on that late cold, blustery afternoon. As the sun disappeared, so did the lights at the restaurant. Les Halles depends upon tiny candles to light the restaurant during the evenings.

After dinner and on our way back to the car, we passed by Primehouse New York, Steve Hanson’s slick, new steak house. We looked inside and noticed the spacious white moderately lit bar area, and decided to venture in for a Manhattan (after all, it was cold outside). We sat at the bar for a while and chatted with the bartender/ writer who was originally from Detroit. Of course bartenders always have amusing stories to tell, particularly those who are from the mid-west and relocate to Manhattan. After we finished our drinks, one of the servers escorted me downstairs and showed me the special “Salt Room” where cuts of beef are set to age. I was told that Primehouse has its own bull, named Prime, who produces the beef cattle specifically for the restaurant. That’s one busy bull!

After we left the Park Avenue South area, we ventured to the Village for a quick dessert stop at P*ONG, the relatively new place opened by Pichet Ong of Spice Market. When we arrived, we learned that Pichet was out sick with the flu, but his partner was there and offered hospitable service just the same. We enjoyed a cheese plate and a Stilton cheese soufflé smothered in walnuts with basil ice cream as an accompaniment. That was an excellent “dessert.”
Finally, it was time to call it a day and/or night of shopping and hopping (not really “hopping”). Again? Maybe it was. Whatever you call it, there’s nothing better then spending an afternoon shopping and/or hopping for food in the City. What City is that?