FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHY COCKTAILS

What is the Feast of the Seven Fishy Cocktails?  

We all know that Christmas Eve is the Feast of the Seven Fishes and is very traditional in the Italian household. I'm not Italian but over the years I have become a part of the tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.  So after many visits to our fish market and having an abundance of seafood in my fridge, I devised my own version of the Feast which I named the Feast of the Seven Fishy Cocktails.  And, every year, people start calling me in May for an invite.  It used to be asking for an invite to my New Year's Eve celebration, but now there's two.

Not all of these contain alcohol and are simply named because they're served in a cocktail style glass or have some type of base that sounds like a cocktail.  The only fishy cocktail made with straight vodka or gin is the Oyster Martini.  The Bloody Mary Steamed Salmon Cocktail is cooked in a Bloody Mary mixture containing alcohol which is burned off during the cooking process.   The Tahitian Blue Shrimp Cocktail, Sashimi Cocktail, and the Conch Cocktail are simply served cocktail style.  Finally, the Colossal Florida Stone Crabs are purchased ready to eat and served with a chardonnay based sauce which is also purchased.  Also purchased are the Marinated White Anchovies, which are served atop a mesculin salad that is tossed in champagne vinaigrette. 

Oyster Martini

“Shucked then stirred”

Freshly shucked oyster, topped with vodka (or gin), a splash of vermouth, lemon juice, freshly-cracked pepper and garnished with an olive

 Salmon Bloody Mary

“A Salmon Bloody Mary? Where’s the shrimp?”

Atlantic salmon simmered in tomato juice, vodka, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, fresh lemon juice and chopped celery

Tahitian Blue Shrimp Cocktail

“Here's the shrimp, with a 'twist’--not white Gulf Shrimp--Sorry, Chef Besh"

 Jumbo Tahitian blue shrimps steamed in a spiced fish fumet, then chilled and served with traditional shrimp cocktail sauce and fresh lemons

Sashimi Cocktail

“New style sashimi in a martini glass”

Sushi-grade tuna and salmon served with a yuzu and soy vinaigrette, topped with bamboo and soy smoked sesame seeds, Paddlefish caviar, pickled ginger and wasabi, garnished with salmon skin crackle 

 

Conch Cocktail

“Conch?”

Conch ceviche style marinated in fresh lime juice and red onions served with habanero peppers

 Colossal Florida Stone Crabs with Chardonnay Dijon Sauce

“Couldn’t get to Joe’s in Miami this year”

Colossal Florida stone crabs served with a chardonnay Dijon mustard dipping sauce 

Marinated White Anchovies Served atop a Mesculin Salad tossed in a Champagne Vinaigrette

“The 7^th fish”

Smothered in a champagne vinaigrette

 OYSTER MARTINI

Oyster Martini

Now we all know that serving a raw oyster with alcohol is nothing new and it is known to everyone as an oyster shooter.  Mine, however, isn't the "typical" oyster shot.  It is served in a martini glass, so could we re-name it?

1 live oyster (shucked)
1/2 fl oz vodka or gin
Splash of vermouth (1/8 teaspoon)
Splash fresh lemon juice (1/8 teaspoon)
0.125 tsp. pepper

1 green olive

In a mini martini glass, place the freshly shucked oyster.  Top with vodka or gin and a splash of vermouth.  Add lemon juice, pepper and olive.

SALMON BLOODY MARY

Salmon Bloody Mary

With shrimp

Whenever I think about a Bloody Mary, typically for brunch, shrimps immediately come to mind as the perfect accompaniment, and many establishments include one or two in their recipe. So, as I was putting together a cocktail/tapas menu and discovered this dish, it immediately piqued my interest.  This recipe is adapted from Chef Michael Smith's book, Michael's Best of Chefs at Home.  As Chef Smith said, "One of the easiest ways to cook any type of fish is to simply simmer it in a flavorful liquid.  And if that liquid just happens to taste like a classic cocktail, all the better."

2 4 oz salmon fillets
0.125 tsp pepper
1 cup tomato juice
2 fl oz vodka
1/2 Tablespoon horseradish
1/2 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
1/3 tsp olive oil
1/2 cup celery, chopped
Celery stalk (for garnish), optional

Season the salmon fillets with pepper. 

Mix remaining ingredients in a shallow saucepan with tight-fitting lid.  Bring to a gentle simmer and then add salmon fillets.  Cover and poach the salmon in the liquid until cooked through, about 10 minutes.  Serve each fillet with the cooking broth ladled overtop.  Garnish with celery stalk.

 

TAHITIAN BLUE SHRIMP COCKTAIL MADE IN SPICY COURT BOUILLON

Tahitian Blue Shrimp

    

I posted my shrimp cocktail court bouillon before, but here it is again. This time we're using Tahitian Blue shrimps.  So does that mean it's different?

1 large onion, cut into thin slices

1 celery rib, cut into thin slices

1 fresh bay leaf

2 sprigs of thyme

2 sprigs of parsley

2 sprigs of fresh dill (or fennel fronds)

1/4 cup coriander seeds

1 tablespoon dill seeds

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 teaspoon allspice berries

1 teaspoon celery seeds

1 teaspoon white peppercorns

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 lemon, halved

1/2 cup tarragon vinegar

3 quarts of water

1 pound of extra large shrimps (U12-15) in the shell

For Serving:

Shredded lettuce

Lemon wedges

Cocktail sauce, either purchased or home-made

Combine all ingredients (except shrimps) in a saucepan.  Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook at an active simmer for 15 minutes. Turn off heat.   Let mixture infuse for about an hour.  

Return to a boil.  Add the shrimps and bring back to a full boil.  Cover, turn off heat and let shrimps sit for about 4-5 minutes.  Drain shrimps and when cool enough to handle, peel and devein them.  Trim off "excess skin" from the deveining area.  Make them clean.  When done, put shrimps in the refrigerator and chill until ready to serve.

To plate:  Fill chilled martini glasses with shredded lettuce.  Place 3-4 shrimps on the rim of the glass.  Add a lemon wedge and dollop of cocktail sauce in the middle.

 

SASHIMI COCKTAIL

Sashimi Cocktail

This is, by far, one of my favorite recipes, which I also posted before. "Say it again, Sashimi."

I've always enjoyed Nobu's "New Style Sashimi" and have been making it for at least a decade.  This is a little bit of a spin on the dish, but the underlying ingredients are there.  Sushi-grade tuna and salmon are served with a yuzu and a soy vinaigrette, lightly cooked with a combination of warm oils, then topped with soy and bamboo smoked sesame seeds, paddlefish caviar, pickled ginger and wasabi, garnished with a salmon skin crackle.  The "garnishes" are the fun part.  The salmon skin crackles are a very tasty garnish--sort of like the "olive" in a martini.

Ingredients
8 oz. Sushi-grade Salmon, skins reserved
8 oz. Sushi-grade Tuna

4 Tablespoons Soy Sauce

4 Tablespoons Yuzu Juice

2 Tablespoons Minced Garlic

14 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil

4 Tablespoons Sesame Oil

1 Tablespoon Soy Sesame Seed (or White)

1 Tablespoon Bamboo Smoked Sesame Seed (or Black)

2 Tablespoons of Paddlefish caviar (or the real stuff)

1/4 cup of Daikon, shredded on a Japanese spiral slicer

2 Scallions cut on the diagonal

8 pieces of Pickled Ginger, for garnish

Fresh Wasabi Root, grated on a shark-skin grater (or the tube stuff) for garnish

Make the salmon skin crackles:  Cut salmon skins into 1-inch strips. Heat a sauté pan.  Add about 2 Tablespoons of the oil and fry salmon skins until very crisp. Remove from pan; place on paper towels and set aside.  When cooled down, thread onto stainless steel or bamboo mini skewers. This is the garnish.

Mix the soy and yuzu juices with garlic; set aside.

Cut the salmon and tuna into 1/2" chunks. 

Combine the olive oil and sesame oil in a nonreactive small saucepan. Set over moderately high heat and bring almost to a boil (about 200°); the surface will shimmer. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To make the martini (or plate):

Line the bottom of four chilled martini glasses with the shredded daikon. Place equal portions of salmon and tuna in each glass. Drizzle the soy/yuzu/garlic mixture on each serving.  Then, pour the warm oil mixture on each one to "lightly" sear the fish.  Sprinkle the scallions and both sesame seeds on each.  Add a dollop of caviar and about two slices of ginger, and another dollop of wasabi on each.  Garnish each with a salmon skin crackle. Serves 4

CONCH SALAD COCKTAIL

Conch Salad Cocktail

Conch in the Shell
 

My new local fish market had fresh conch and I couldn't resist.  The meat of conches is used as food, either eaten raw, or cooked.  I opted to make the conch as a ceviche, where it is marinated in lime juice and  red onions.  Later it is added to a mixture of habanero peppers and cukes.  When served in a cocktail glass, it becomes a cocktail sans alcohol.

1/4 pound of conch meat

¼ small red onion, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
1/2 cup fresh lime juice (about 4 limes)
½ habañero pepper, stem removed, deveined and minced (about ½ teaspoon)
¼ cucumber, peeled, seeded and finely diced (about ½ cup)
3/4 teaspoon Fleur de Sel or sea salt

Place the conch meat in between two pieces of plastic wrap. Using a meat tenderizer, pound the conch meat to 1/8 inch thick. Once tenderized, cut the conch meat into ½-inch chunks. Transfer the meat to a glass or ceramic bowl and add the onion and lime juice. Make sure the conch chunks float freely in the lime juice to allow thorough and even marinating. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to marinate for 3-5 minutes. Strain and set aside. Discard the lime juice.

In a separate bowl, combine the minced habañero and cucumber. Carefully incorporate the conch meat and onions. Add more lime juice and season with salt. Mix well.

COLOSSAL FLORIDA STONE CRABS WITH CHARDONNAY DIJON SAUCE

MARINATED WHITE ANCHOVIES SERVED ATOP A MESCULIN SALAD TOSSED IN A CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE

Also, not home-made....

ROASTED GOOSE

I think it was in 2005 that I started making a goose every year for the holidays.  Back then, it was one purchased from a local market that was located down the road from my office in northern New Jersey.

Blurry Photo Goose 2005

Every year thereafter it became an annual tradition to roast a goose. 

Ready for the Oven Circa 2007

Roasted Goose 2007

And, over the years I've purchased many from various markets in the City.  In some instances, I waited on line for more than an hour to pick it up. 

"Waiting" on line for over an hour 2011

And I am not one who likes to wait on line--let alone outside in sub-freezing temps.  But, it has become a tradition and the holidays wouldn't be the same without the annual roasted goose.

Goose From the Market

A goose has a very thick skin which conceals large amounts of fat. The fat needs to be drawn out of the bird during the cooking process. Properly cooked, the goose will not be greasy.  Roasting a goose or a duck requires some work and preparation not typical to roasting most other types of poultry such as a turkey or a chicken. 

So, my first attempt at making a goose was utilizing Chef Jacques Pepin's method of steaming the goose, then letting it sit in the fridge, uncovered, overnight.  The fatty skin on the goose becomes dry, sort of like parchment paper, and is literally covered with bumps--goose, that is.

 

The goose is then prepped and roasted in a traditional fashion-- sort of like a turkey or a duck or a chicken. Sort of.  We all know that a goose is not a turkey, just as a duck is not a chicken. 

Anyway... steaming the goose the night before is how I have been preparing it almost every year, and it has worked well every time. 

However, last year I opted to try something other than my traditional way.  I didn't steam the goose or let it sit uncovered overnight in the fridge.  Instead, I adapted a recipe for roasted goose from Chef Gordon Ramsey.  I figured that a British chef's recipe for a goose has to work.  It was a very simple method of just scoring the skin of the goose and smothering it with a mixture of spices and citrus zest and roasting it.  That method was also very good, but, as expected, different from steaming the goose first.

 

Last week, as I started thinking about this year's goose, I began to flip through one of my holiday cookbooks and discovered a recipe for goose stuffed with sauerkraut.  Sauerkraut?  I don't think I'll be trying that one.   

I'll continue with my Roasted Goose with Spices and Dried Fruit, which is always a winner--Steamed, first, of course.

STEAMING THE GOOSE

One 12-pound goose, neck and giblets reserved, visible fat removed
Salt and freshly ground pepper
5 cups warm water

Beginning at the neck end, work your fingers under the goose skin, snipping any fibers and sinews with kitchen scissors; work your fingers as far down over the thighs as possible.  Season the goose inside and out with salt and pepper.

Set the goose on a rack in a heavy roasting pan, breast side up. Add the neck, gizzard, heart and 5 cups of the water to the pan. Cover the goose with foil and seal the foil all around the edge of the pan. Bring the water to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and steam for 45 minutes.

Steaming the Goose

Remove from the heat and let cool. Transfer the rack with the goose to a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered overnight, until the skin is very dry, like parchment. Strain the pan juices and refrigerate. The strained juices will be used for the pan sauce.

Steamed Goose

Bring the goose to room temperature before roasting.  And now, the recipes.

ROASTED GOOSE WITH SPICES AND DRIED-FRUIT



Circa 2010

 

8oz dried figs, stems discarded 8 oz dried apricots (1 1/4 cups) 8 oz pitted prunes (1 1/4 cups) 1 tablespoon whole allspice 2 tablespoons mixed peppercorns (black, white, green, and pink) 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, melted 1 (12-lb) goose that has been steamed; wing tips removed 2 medium onions, quartered 1/3 cup shallots, finely chopped 2/3 cup cognac 2 cups reserved goose pan juices from steaming the goose 1 Tablespoon arrowroot (or AP flour)   Prepare dried fruit: Cover figs, apricots, and prunes with water in a 3-quart saucepan and simmer, covered, 20 minutes. Drain. Reserve 2 cups of fruit.  Thread remaining fruit onto 4 metal skewers.   Prepare goose: Preheat oven to 350 degrees   Crack allspice and peppercorns using a mortar and pestle (or spread spices on a kitchen towel and crack with bottom of a heavy skillet).  Stir cracked spices into melted butter.   Prick goose skin, especially thighs and breast, all over with a metal skewer.  Do not puncture meat.  Season goose well with salt inside and out. Fold neck skin under body.  Put onions and the reserved 2 cups of fruit in cavity and tie legs together loosely with string. Rub skin all over with spiced butter.   Pre-Oven Goose With Peppercorn Spices Roast goose: Put goose on rack in roasting pan and roast in middle of oven 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F and continue to roast, basting goose and skimming off and reserving excess fat, every 30 minutes.   Arrange skewers with fruit on the rack around the goose.  Continue to roast goose, basting and skimming and reserving fat in same manner, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into fleshy part of a thigh (do not touch bone) registers 170°F and several fruits from bottom of cavity speared on thermometer register 160–165°F, about 1 hour more (juices will be slightly pink when thigh is pierced; temperature will rise to 175°F as goose stands).   Remove fruit from skewers and transfer to a bowl, or be creative and keep the fruit on two of the skewers and place skewers into goose. Transfer goose to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered with foil, 30 minutes. Keep warm. Make pan sauce: Scrape the solidified fat off the refrigerated pan juices (the reminant juices from steaming the goose) and refrigerate for another use (roasting potatoes).   Put the rest of the pan juices into a measuring cup and set aside.   Pour off the fat in the roasting pan that was used to roast the goose.  Straddle the pan across 2 burners. Add shallots and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring, until golden, about 3 minutes. Add Cognac and deglaze pan by boiling and scraping up brown bits.  Add the reserved juices( from steaming the goose) to the pan and bring to a boil.  Pour the juices mixture into a saucepan.   Make a slurry of equal parts arrowroot and pan juice.  Add this into the saucepan and simmer, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper and strain through a sieve.  Keep warm.   To Serve: Discard onions from cavity of goose and add fruit from cavity to the fruit in bowl, then keep warm, covered. Carve goose, cutting breast into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Serve fruit and sauce on the side.

ROASTED GOOSE WITH SPICES AND CITRUS -- NOT STEAMED


Roasted Goose with Spices and Citrus 2011

1 12-pound goose
4 lemons
3 limes
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp five-spice powder
1 sprig each of parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
2 Tablespoons clover honey
2 Tablespoons Thyme leaves

Using the tip of a sharp knife, lightly score the breast and leg skin in a criss-cross. This helps the fat to render down more quickly during roasting.

Grate the zest from the lemons and limes. Mix with 2 tsp fine sea salt, the five-spice powder and pepper to taste. Season the cavity of the goose generously with salt, then rub the citrus mix well into the skin and sprinkle some inside the cavity.

 

Scored Goose with Zest and Spices 2011

Stuff the zested fruit and the herb sprigs inside the bird and set aside for at least 15 minutes.

Heat oven to 350degrees.

Drizzle the goose with the honey and sprinkle with thyme leaves.  Place goose in oven.  Every 30 minutes turn goose 1/4 and baste.  Gather any goose fat and reserve for another dish--potatoes, maybe.  Total cooking time should be about 2 1/2- 3 hours.  At the end of the cooking time, leave goose to rest for about 20-30 minutes, covered loosely with foil.