Sea Beans and Arugula Salad

Sea Beans are commonly know as samphire.  There are two edible very similar plants. One grows along the coast of northwestern Europe and is referred to as rock samphire, or crithmum maritimum.  The other type of samphire that is available in the U.S. is known as salicornia.  It grows in abundance along both coasts.  Fresh sea beans are typically found on supermarket shelves from spring through fall.  They are most tender during the summer months.

One of my favorite dishes to make with seabeans is a salad of seabeans and arugula.  The sea bean is best when eaten raw. It has a crunchy and crispy texture and an abundant taste of saltiness from the ocean with a slightly fishy flavor.  Since arugula has its own natural pepper flavor, the combination works well together.  The ultimate effect is two natural ingredients coming together to create a bursting flavor of salt and pepper, without any salt or pepper. For some sweetness, I like to add diced red pepper.

Sea Beans and Arugula Salad

1 cup of sea beans

1 bunch Arugula, stems removed
1 cup of diced red pepper

Rinse sea beans and dry. 
Discard stems from arugula and wash well.  Dry leaves in salad spinner.

Toss together sea beans and arugula.  Add diced red pepper and top with alfalfa sprouts (if desired) as a garnish. That’s it. 

TurDuckEn Lasagna

TurDuckEn Lasagna

There are several components to this dish.  REALLY! SEVERAL!  First, we’re making duck stock and braised duck legs separately.  Then, we make braised turkey legs and chicken thighs. We then make a recipe of wild mushrooms; and, finally, a béchamel sauce.  In the middle of it all, we’re making the lasagna noodles.  Or are we “cheating” by purchasing the dry lasagna noodles, which are acceptable according to one of the—if not the—top Italian restaurants in NYC?  Finally, all is assembled and baked in the oven to make an incredible dish.  Whew! I’m tired just writing about it.  Here goes…

To make the duck stock and braised duck legs:

• One 4 pound duck, discard excess fat from body cavity
• One leek, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 medium onions, one roughly chopped and one ready to chop
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
• 1 quart water
• 1/4 tsp salt      
• 1/8 tsp pepper
• 1parsnip
• 1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon grape seed or canola oil, divided
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/4 cup parsley, freshly chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

First, become a duck butcher, or ask your local butcher to cut off the legs, wings, and breasts from the duck.  Cut up carcass and cut the wing tips off from the wings. The carcass and wing tips will be used for the duck stock.  Remove any bones from the duck breasts, leaving the skin on. Chill the legs, wings, and breasts in a sealable bag.   Use the breasts for another dish.  We used it for seared duck breasts with cherries and a port sauce (another recipe).  Now, let’s get back to the turducken lasagna.

Cut and wash the leek. Then put the leek in a stock pot (about a 6-8 quart-sized one) with the cut up duck carcass, the wing tips, the chopped onion, the carrot, the water, the salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and gently simmer, uncovered, skimming foam occasionally, about 1 hour. Skim off and discard fat and strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl.  That’s the duck stock to use for the braising of the duck legs.  I know.  It’s a lot of work.  But, someone has to do this; unless, you’d rather go to a restaurant, but then you won’t have a story to tell your friends about how you made “fresh duck stock” from scratch.  Okay, let’s get back on track here...

In the mean time, while all of that is going on....preheat oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle.

Coarsely chop remaining onion. Peel parsnips and cut into 3-inch batons (1/4 inch thick). Remove legs and wings from the fridge and pat them dry. Season them with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a wide 6- to 7-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, add duck legs and wings and brown them, turning over once, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

In that pot, add the onions, parsnips, lemon juice, the salt and pepper and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened and pale golden, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add 2 cups of the freshly made duck stock (save remainder for another use) and nestle in the duck legs and wings into the vegetable mixture. Bring to a boil. Cover pot and braise in oven until meat is tender, about 1 hour.  Remove and let stand, uncovered, at room temperature for 1 hour.  The “duck” part of the “turducken” is now done….There are other components to the dish.  Yes, there are.  Here we go:

To make the turkey legs and chicken thighs:

 

·         2 whole turkey legs

·         4 chicken thighs (or 5 or 6 – whatever is available)

·         Dash of salt and pepper – about 1/8 of a tsp total

·         2 tablespoons of chopped fresh thyme

·         ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

·         4 cups chicken stock (home-made, of course, or use any “leftover” duck stock to make a total of 4 cups chicken/duck stock)

·         3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

·         One 3 inch piece of ginger

·         ½ cup soy sauce, preferably Tamari

Place turkey legs and thighs in a shallow baking dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and fresh thyme.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.  Remove and brush off any excess salt, pepper, thyme.

Heat ¼ cup of olive oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Brown turkey legs and chicken thighs in batches, if necessary, on both sides.  After the legs/thighs are browned, add the chicken stock, light brown sugar, ginger and soy sauce to pot and simmer for 1 ½ hours, skimming foam as it rises to the top of the liquid.  Remove turkey and chicken thighs from pot and let ‘em all rest.  The “turkey and chicken components” of the dish are now done.  Whew…is this Thanksgiving?  No. It’s just a day in my kitchen.  Anyway, this could be made a day In advance.  Actually, either of the poultry parts could be made a day in advance.

  To make the wild mushrooms:

·         12 ounces of baby portabella mushrooms, stemmed and cleaned

·         6 ounces of shitake mushrooms, also stemmed and cleaned

·         2 Tablespoons of black truffle butter – (Or regular unsalted butter with a dollop of truffle oil…well…no)

·         ½ cup olive oil

·         4-5 cloves of garlic, chopped

·         2 sprigs of rosemary

·         1 tablespoon of fresh thyme

·         1 tablespoon of freshly shredded sage

·         2 tablespoons of fresh parsley

·         Salt and pepper – about 1/8 teaspoon in total (I measure dashes and pinches)…

Heat butter and oil.  Sautee garlic briefly.  Add mushrooms and stir.  Let them soften.  Add the rest of the ingredients.  Stir until it all becomes aromatic.  Then, let the mushrooms rest a bit while you make the béchamel …..

To Make the Béchamel Sauce:

·         4 Tablespoons butter

·         4 Tablespoons arrowroot (I prefer arrowroot versus any flour product – better on the digestive system, I’m told)

·         1 cup milk

·         1 cup heavy cream

·         Salt and white pepper—a dash, or pinch, or 1/8 tsp

Melt butter in saucepan; add arrowroot, stirring with whisk until well blended.  Slowly, add milk and heavy cream, while stirring briskly with whisk.  Add salt and white pepper.  Stir until thick and smooth.  Lower heat and cook, stirring occasionally.  When done, add this mixture to the mushroom pan full of love.

At some point during the middle of this trifecta workload of creativity, boil the lasagna noodles.  Then drain them.  After draining the noodles, sprinkle them with some truffle oil (or unsalted butter) to prevent sticking…….

FINALLY, the combination:  Whew! Really!

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Butter a 9” x 13 ½” x 2” glass lasagna dish with black truffle butter…or unsalted butter or with truffle oil or whatever.  The goal here is to prevent it all from sticking to the dish.

Shred the meat from the braised duck legs, the braised turkey legs and the braised chicken thighs.  That’s a lot of fun to do.  Make sure that the meat isn’t piping hot when you do this. Mix all of the meat together.  After the trio of meat is ready to assemble, line the bottom of the lasagna dish with the béchamel/mushroom mixture; then sprinkle the combo of turducken meat, then top with a layer of the lasagna noodles; then continue with another layer of the mushroom mixture, the turkducken combination, the noodles, etc. until you’re done.  Finish with a layer of noodles on top; then dab with the black truffle butter/oil.  Bake in a 350 degree oven for about 30 minutes.

Remove from oven.  Let rest for about 15 minutes.  Cut into pieces and serve and have your guests drool.  They will.  Guaranteed!

Macaroni and Cheese

Macaroni &Cheese

I could say that there are as many Mac & Cheese recipes out there as there are recipes for roasted chicken, meat loaf, or chicken soup, to name a few.  These are considered some main comfort foods and have been appearing on many restaurants’ menus during the past several years.   Although I grew up as a child consuming the “mac & cheese” from a blue box that used to cost $1.00 for three boxes – I never made a home-made dish.    Something I didn’t really think about ever making at all.  Actually, not at all.  Until yesterday.

After spending a day at the International Hotel, Motel, and Restaurant Show at the Javits Center in NYC, and after enjoying lunch at Spice Market in the late afternoon, come evening, we were hungry.  And, since I was out all day, I didn’t replenish the proteins or produce in the fridge.  So, what should I make?  Okay…after looking in the fridge at the cheddar cheese, milk, butter and two black truffles in a jar that were left over from another meal, I thought about mac & cheese, with truffles, of course.  And the cabinet held a half a pound of egg noodles left over from last week’s chicken stock and soup.  Perfect.  So, I pulled out my yellow Gourmet Cookbook and modified a classic with ingredients that I had on hand…and it was unbelievably good.

For the topping:

1 Tablespoon of unsalted melted butter

1 cup of panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

1 cup of extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated on the traditional stainless steel hand held grater—avoid grating knuckles.

For the cheese sauce and macaroni:

2 tablespoons of melted unsalted butter

1 tablespoon of arrowroot (arrowroot is better than flour, IMO, as a thickening agent to make a roux; also, better to digest, I’ve been told)

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup milk

½ cup of cream cheese (yes, cream cheese, which is always on hand for a bagel…and since I had no heavy cream on hand)

2 cups of coarsely grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, coarse, country style—my favorite. Not that yellow stuff they put on hot dogs.

Dash of salt

Finely ground crushed fresh black pepper

2 truffles, finely chopped

Truffle oil – about 2 tablespoons, for drizzling

½ pound of egg noodles (or whatever is in the cabinet left over from a pasta dish or any macaroni-type meal).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter a shallow baking dish.  A two- quart dish worked for this recipe. Adjust accordingly for the amount of m&c that you are making.

For the topping:  Stir together the butter, panko and grated cheddar cheese in a bowl until well combined.

For the sauce:  Melt butter in a heavy pot.  Whisk in arrowroot and red pepper flakes and cook, whisking for a few minutes to make a roux.  Whisk in milk slowly.  Bring sauce to a boil, whisking constantly.  Simmer for three minutes.  Stir in cream cheese, cheddar cheese, mustard, chopped truffles, salt and pepper.  Remove from heat.

Cook the macaroni in salted water until al dente.  Reserve ½ cup of pasta cooking water and drain macaroni.

Stir together macaroni, reserved cooking water and sauce in a large bowl; transfer to baking dish.

Drizzle truffle oil over macaroni and sprinkle topping evenly over macaroni.

Bake until top is warmed through….not tough or dry….about 20 minutes

Spinach Salad

This is a recipe that was included in a teakwood salad bowl set I received as a wedding gift in 1978 (I was 19).  Needless to say, the marriage didn’t last.  However, the recipe is still in its original “paper” (paper? what’s that?) form and tucked away in a 3” x 5 ½” plastic recipe box that I still have from when I was 13 years old.  I modified the recipe and made it for years and always received many compliments.  That was “back in the day” during the time period way before I started experimenting and creating cuisines from “around the world.” 

Recently, after purchasing a beautiful bunch of fresh spinach from the produce market, I revisited the recipe. I don’t use bacon, so it’s vegetarian friendly.  Instead, I use red onions (yes, red onions), which are finely diced into ¼ inch pieces, then rinsed under cold water and drained and squeezed through paper towels to remove the water.  This takes out the “tartness” of the onion but still keeps the flavor.

1 pound of raw spinach

Dash of Kosher salt (my dash = 0.0125 grams)

3 cloves of garlic, minced or smashed – whatever you like

2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice

6 Tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

½ pound of raw button  mushrooms, sliced (if you want to, get exotic with the mushrooms, then go for it)  -- I you don’t like “a lot” of mushrooms, use about a cup of sliced versus the ½ pound

½ cup of red onion- finely chopped into ¼ inch pieces.  Rinse onions under water and drain with paper towels. 

Wash spinach well. Of course, we know this today; this is from 1978.  Cut away tough stems.  Drain spinach leaves and chill in damp clean cloths—again circa’78.  Today, we use a salad spinner and then let spinach sit in the fridge to chill.

Sprinkle bottom of the salad bowl with salt and then rub with garlic.  Keep garlic in the bowl if you’re bold.  If not, remove it.  This will just give a “hint” of garlic flavor.  Add lemon juice and olive oil and chill the bowl for about 30 minutes.  Tear spinach leaves into bit size pieces.  Add spinach to chilled bowl.  Add sliced mushrooms and red onion.  Toss lightly.  Serves 4.

Wasabi Mashed Potatoes

With the influx of “fusion” cuisine during the past decade, or more likely almost two decades, it’s amazing to experience the robust and unique flavors that many talented chefs have incorporated into certain foods that were once only a standard side dish at the dinner table.  I know, we’re getting tired of the term “fusion,” but let’s look at the simple side dish of mashed potatoes, which are now available in a variety of flavors.  Who would have thought that an effortless combination of potatoes, milk and butter would turn into a worldly cuisine incorporating ingredients such as ginger, jalapeno, eggplant, spinach or chocolate (well maybe not…or maybe so)?  The list is endless as to what could be added to this “simple” side dish that was once only “dressed” with gravy, typically from a can, nonetheless.  Remember that?  Anyway, after eating basic mashed potatoes (sans gravy) for many years growing up as a child, today, one of my favorite “flavored” mashed potatoes is made with wasabi root.  I can’t even count the number of restaurants that started serving this alternative exotic-sounding starch on their menus after the Nobu invasion in the late 1990’s. It is very good.  If done well.

The potatoes should be made with the real wasabi root, however.  NOT the powder, which could cause the potatoes to have a “plastic, artificial taste.”  If real wasabi root is unavailable, then the paste would suffice (sort of).  Again, stay AWAY from powered wasabi.  Here goes…

Wasabi Mashed Potatoes:

2 pounds baking potatoes (russets), peeled and cut into 2 inch dice

½  cup milk – warmed

4 ounces butter, cut into pieces

About 1 ½ - 2 tablespoons freshly grated wasabi root (alternatively use about 1 tablespoon of wasabi paste; don’t use powder)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the potatoes in salted, boiling water until done. Pass through a food mill or ricer. Whisk in warmed milk and butter.  Stir in freshly grated wasabi root (or wasabi paste). Stir until well incorporated.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Yesterday, Michael Symon was in New York for a cooking demonstration and promoting his new book, “Michael Symon’s Live to Cook.”

Michael told the audience that his mom was of Italian and Greek heritage who loved to cook, always from scratch. His dad’s roots are from the Ukraine. So, his cuisine has a Greek, Italian, and Slovakian flair. (The Slovakian explains his expertise at pierogi, I guess). He is a supporter of cooking with salt and more salt, pork, and fresh ingredients. He made a breaded pork chop with a side of fresh greens dressed in a lemon vinaigrette.

After his demo, I chatted with Michael as he signed his book for me. Also, I had brought along the brochure from the Scottsdale Celebrity Chef Golf Invitational which was held at Greyhawk Golf Club (Phil Mickelson’s place) in April 2003. Michael was one of the celebrity chef golfers playing in that tournament.

We rode together in the van transporting the golfers, chefs, and spectators (I was the latter) from the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort at Gainey Ranch to the golf club. I had always remembered Michael’s deep laugh and that he had a restaurant in Cleveland. Back then, I had “no clue” who he was and the only celebrity chef’s name that I recognized was Bobby Flay, so I followed his foursome. (Tom Colicchio also played in that tournament and had a full head of hair at the time). Again, this event happened way before Top Chef, Iron Chef or Chef of the Future (well, Chef of the Future is from the old Honeymooners). Anyway….getting back on track. Yesterday, I learned that Michael “took all of Bobby Flay’s money that day.” He smiled as he told me that while signing the golf brochure. I also learned that Michael has a nine handicap in golf. I followed Bobby’s foursome for several holes, and now I know “why” Michael took all of Bobby’s money that day.

So, after the book (and golf brochure) signing yesterday, I perused the golf brochure some more which featured recipes from each Chef who participated in the tournament. Michael Symon’s recipe for Lobster Pierogi is in the golf brochure.

Lobster Pierogi

½ cup sour cream
6 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 Tbs. minced chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 large Yukon gold potato (1/2 pound)
2 Tbs. half-and-half or heavy cream
4 oz. cooked lobster meat, cut into 1/4 –inch pieces

In a medium bowl, combine sour cream with 4 Tbs. butter, egg, chives, 1 Tbs. of salt and 1 tsp of pepper. Using your hands work in the flour. Turn dough out onto work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Shape dough into two 6-inch disks. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, boil potato in water until tender, about 20 minutes; drain. Peel and press through ricer or sieve into medium bowl. Stir in remaining 2 Tbs. of butter and half-and half, then add the lobster meat. Season with salt and pepper and cool.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of dough to a 15-inch round about 1/8-inch thick. Using 3-inch biscuit cutter cut out 12 to 15 rounds. Brush each with water and spoon 1 scant Tbs. of lobster filling in center. Fold dough over to form half moons, pressing out air; press and crimp edges to seal. Arrange on baking sheet with wax paper.

Bring pot of salted water to boil. Drop sealed pierogies into boiling water. Remove once they float. Saute’ boiled pierogies in butter until golden brown.

Garnish with chopped chives and sour cream.

Vong Restaurant NYC is Closing on Nov 7

I am deeply saddened to hear that the Vong restaurant in New York City will close its doors on Saturday, November 7. Jean-Georges Vongerichten took on the City by storm when he opened the Thai/French Fusion concept 18 years ago. Another flagship restaurant becomes a victim of the ailing economy.

I remember first dining at Vong in 1999. My favorite dishes were the Black Plate and the Chicken and Coconut Milk Soup. Also, we cannot forget the Sticky Rice Wrapped in a Banana Leaf. All of which, I replicated at home after purchasing the “Jean-Georges Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef” cookbook. The pages are worn and frayed and stained. That’s how I first got introduced to Thai (and Fusion) cuisine and it’s been non-stop for the past decade.

I’ve also had the pleasure of meeting both Pierre Schutz, executive chef at Vong, and Jean-Georges at classes each taught at Degustibus and The New School, respectively. When I mentioned to Jean-Georges that I replicated the Black Plate at home for a New Year’s Eve party, he stepped back and commented, “And you were able to find all of the ingredients? I am very impressed.”

Back then, obtaining the “unique” ingredients was via the Internet or by visiting the Asian Market downtown (which I learned was easier than the Internet). My local A&P did not sell lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves or nam pla. Still doesn’t.

The Black Plate consisted of crab spring rolls with a tamarind dipping sauce; prawn satays with fresh oyster sauce; lobster and daikon rolls and a rosemary ginger dip; quail rubbed with Thai spices served atop a crunchy cress salad with fried shallots; and raw tuna and vegetable rolls wrapped in rice paper.

Another favorite was the chicken and coconut milk soup that is made with lemongrass, thick slices of galangal, shiitake mushrooms, and kaffir lime leaves.

Finally, one can’t go wrong with the sticky rice steamed in a banana leaf. The steamed glutinous rice is tossed with nam pla and coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed again.

All recipes are in the cookbook and are very easy (I know) to prepare at home. The only drawback is that I have dishes to wash afterwards. Oh, well, guess we all have to pay the price for something.