LIME NOODLES

Key Limes

This has to be one of my favorite noodle dishes.  I first had it at Spice Market when the restaurant opened in 2004 where I was seated at the Chef's VIP seat and Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten recommended it.  I love the combination of spiciness, sourness, sweetness and herbs in the noodles.  It is then topped with blanched vegetables, including carrots, broccoli, parsnips and red bell peppers, which provide added crunchiness and flavor.  I've made it many times over the years and have always had much success.  It is so simple.  First we make a lime syrup.  (I have yet to try the dish using key limes, which are pictured in photo above). Then an herb paste is made with sautéed garlic, fresh basil, fresh mint and toasted sesame seeds. Vegetables for the topping are blanched and softened slightly.  Finally, the rice noodles are cooked briefly in boiling water to soften.  When done, the noodles are mixed with the lime syrup and herb paste and topped with the vegetables.  Then, a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds is added as a garnish.  This dish is so good that I like to eat any leftovers cold straight from the fridge.  The recipe is adapted from the Chef's cookbook, Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges.  Although I don't have any photos of the dish, neither does the book!
http://www.amazon.com/Asian-Flavors-Jean-Georges-Vongerichten/dp/076791273X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1363181181&sr=1-1&keywords=asian+flavors+of+jean-georges

Spice Market New York

 

1 1/2 cups grape seed oil

1/2 cup garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 cup sugar
2 cups fresh basil leaves
1 1/2 cups fresh mint leaves
3/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
About 1/2 pound assorted vegetables: carrots, parsnips, broccoli, and red bell peppers, peeled and julienned
1 pound 1/4-inch-wide dried rice noodles, softened in hot water and drained
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter

To make lime syrup:  combine the lime juice and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Set aside.

To make basil mint paste:

Put 3 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic turns golden, about 10 minutes; set aside.

Fill a large bowl with water and ice and set aside.  Bring a small pot of water to a boil and add the basil and mint leaves. As soon as the water returns to a boil, drain the leaves and transfer to the ice water.  When cold, drain again and squeeze dry. Purée in a blender with the sesame seeds, garlic, salt, and 1 cup of the oil. (This herb paste will keep, refrigerated, for 2 days.)

To make the vegetables:

Heat the remaining oil in a skillet over high heat. Add the vegetables and some salt and cook, tossing, just until brightly colored. Keep warm.

To make the noodles:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the noodles until tender, about one minute. Drain and transfer to a large skillet set over high heat with the butter and lime syrup.  Toss noodles until they are mixed well and creamy.  Then drizzle liberally with the basil-mint paste, top with the vegetables, garnish with the sesame seeds, and serve.

Makes 4 servings

SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER

This is an adapted recipe from Jean-Georges Vongerichten that was featured in the March 2002 issue of FOOD&WINE.  For the past decade, it has been another favorite at my dinner gatherings.  As was pictured in the original photo, I like to serve the scallops in Asian ceramic soup spoons set on a bed of ice with lemon moons to squeeze and drizzle on them, just like oysters are served.  Also, I learned that about 2-3 hours is the best amount of time to let the scallops marinate.  I tried letting them sit overnight once and it was too long.

1lb sea scallops

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons fresh grapefruit juice
3 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon almond oil
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
Pink salt
White pepper
1/2 cup roasted red pepper, cut into 1/2-inch dice

Clean sea scallops, pat dry and cut into 3/4-inch dice.  In a medium bowl, toss the scallops with the citrus juices, canola oil, almond oil, and chili and season lightly with pink salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until the scallops are opaque.  They could be done in about an hour or up to 3 hours.

Add the diced roasted peppers to the scallops.  Season with pink salt and white pepper and stir.

Serve the scallops in large spoons set on a bed of ice. Or, just serve the scallops in their original bowl and provide spoons for each guest.

GINGER AND GARLIC FRIED RICE WITH EGG

I’ve adapted this recipe from JGV’s book, Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges.  It has become one of my favorite ways to serve a take on fried rice, and I’ve enjoyed making it with several varieties of rice—jasmine, red jasmine, bamboo, long grain, short grain, etc.  Every time, it always turns out to be a very tasty dish.   I always serve it with a fish protein.
 
¼ cup grape seed or canola oil
2 Tablespoons minced garlic
2 Tablespoons minced fresh ginger
Pinch of Kosher salt
1 cup thinly sliced scallions
2 cups of day-old cooked rice (jasmine, bamboo, red – whatever you have on hand), at room temperature
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce
¼ tablespoon grape seed or canola oil (must be neutral)
1 large egg
Sauté half of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the minced garlic and ginger and season (very) lightly with salt.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and browned (see photo).  Drain on paper towels and set aside.

Heat the remaining oil in a large deep skillet over medium-low heat.  Add scallions.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.  Ensure they are tender but not browned. 

Add rice to the scallion mixture and cook, stirring well, until heated through.  Season to taste with salt.  Remove from heat.  Remove rice from pan and place into a bowl about 5 inches in diameter.  Invert bowl onto a serving plate.  The rice will unmold into a dome.  Drizzle the sesame oil and soy sauce around the mound of rice.

Put the canola oil in a non-stick skillet and fry the egg, sunny-side up, until the edges are set, but the yolk is still runny*.  Put the egg on top of the mound of rice.  Top the mound of rice and egg with the garlic and ginger crisps and serve immediately.

*If you’re not comfortable with the “sunny side up” raw egg yolk, then, as the egg is cooking, break up the yolk to cook to make a “scrambled egg”.  Put this fully-cooked egg on top of the rice mold and add garlic and ginger crisps.  Serves 2

Vong Restaurant NYC is Closing on Nov 7

I am deeply saddened to hear that the Vong restaurant in New York City will close its doors on Saturday, November 7. Jean-Georges Vongerichten took on the City by storm when he opened the Thai/French Fusion concept 18 years ago. Another flagship restaurant becomes a victim of the ailing economy.

I remember first dining at Vong in 1999. My favorite dishes were the Black Plate and the Chicken and Coconut Milk Soup. Also, we cannot forget the Sticky Rice Wrapped in a Banana Leaf. All of which, I replicated at home after purchasing the “Jean-Georges Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef” cookbook. The pages are worn and frayed and stained. That’s how I first got introduced to Thai (and Fusion) cuisine and it’s been non-stop for the past decade.

I’ve also had the pleasure of meeting both Pierre Schutz, executive chef at Vong, and Jean-Georges at classes each taught at Degustibus and The New School, respectively. When I mentioned to Jean-Georges that I replicated the Black Plate at home for a New Year’s Eve party, he stepped back and commented, “And you were able to find all of the ingredients? I am very impressed.”

Back then, obtaining the “unique” ingredients was via the Internet or by visiting the Asian Market downtown (which I learned was easier than the Internet). My local A&P did not sell lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves or nam pla. Still doesn’t.

The Black Plate consisted of crab spring rolls with a tamarind dipping sauce; prawn satays with fresh oyster sauce; lobster and daikon rolls and a rosemary ginger dip; quail rubbed with Thai spices served atop a crunchy cress salad with fried shallots; and raw tuna and vegetable rolls wrapped in rice paper.

Another favorite was the chicken and coconut milk soup that is made with lemongrass, thick slices of galangal, shiitake mushrooms, and kaffir lime leaves.

Finally, one can’t go wrong with the sticky rice steamed in a banana leaf. The steamed glutinous rice is tossed with nam pla and coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed again.

All recipes are in the cookbook and are very easy (I know) to prepare at home. The only drawback is that I have dishes to wash afterwards. Oh, well, guess we all have to pay the price for something.