EPIGRAMS de SOLE

Epigrams de Sole

This is another favorite recipe of mine from Chef Michel Roux Jnr of the two-star Michelin restaurant Le Gavroche in London.  Chef Roux demonstrated this on the Master Chef UK series.  He said that it is such an intricate dish that his "Chefs hate it when it is on the menu at the restaurant."  Of course, I had to give it a try.  It is simply sole fillets stuffed with a lobster and tarragon mixture, then covered in a pane', and sautéed in plenty of butter and oil.  Not a dish for every day but once in a while a nice treat.  Chef Roux garnishes the dish with the lobster head and tail and adds baby carrots and baby turnips.  A very nice presentation.   Although my lobster head fell apart, everything else was perfect for the first time making it.  However, I did "cheat" and purchased fillets--not a whole fish.  As with several of Chef Roux's other dishes, this was fun and not as challenging as the show portrays.

For the Stuffed Sole:

2 Fillets of soul, about 3-4 ounce portions each
1 1-1/4 # lobster; cooked; lobster meat removed; shells reserved for sauce
1/2 cup fresh tarragon, chopped
1 cup AP flour
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup bread crumbs, unflavored
2 Tablespoons olive oil
4 oz unsalted butter

For the Sauce:

Reserved lobster body
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/2 cup chopped carrots
1/3 cup chopped celery
4 oz unsalted butter (1/2 stick)
1 bay leaf
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup Brandy
1/2 cup White Wine
1 Roma tomato chopped; about 4 ounces
1 cup fish stock



Lobster Stock

To Make the Sauce:
Add shallots, carrots and celery to pan.  Add lobster shells and butter. Break lobster shells while stirring.  Add bay leaf, garlic and tomato paste.  Stir to cook paste slightly for about one minute.  Add brandy then add and the white wine.  Let alcohol reduce for about 2-3 minutes.  Then add the fish stock.  Simmer until stock is intensified and reduced by half, about 35-40 minutes. When done, pass sauce into a sieve.  Set sauce aside.

To Make the Stuffed Sole:

For the Filling:
Mix the chopped lobster meat with the tarragon.  Set aside.



Lobster/Tarragon Mixture

For the Sole:
On a flat surface, score fillets with a knife.  Then pound between film (clear plastic wrap) concentrating on the thickest part of the fillets to make them uniform in thickness (sort of like pounding on a chicken breast to make it uniform).  Remove film.  Place lobster/tarragon mixture on the lower portion of the fillet and fold the top portion of fillet over.  Trim sides and bottom of fillets to form a "triangle".  (Set scraps aside for another use.)  Press on folded fillet (epigram) to seal.  Dip epigrams in flour, and then dredge in egg yolk mixture, then coat in the unflavored bread crumbs.  Chill in the refrigerator for about 20-30 minutes so the epigram will seal and not fall apart during cooking.

To Finish:

Heat a sauté' pan with a combination of butter and oil mixture--not too hot.  Sauté' epigrams in pan and continue to spoon the mixture over fish while they are cooking.  When one side turns brown, turn epigrams over and continue to spoon the butter over the other side.  When epigrams turn golden, remove from pan and set on a plate lined with paper towels.  Let epigrams drain, then plate.

Add a dollop of the leftover lobster/tarragon mixture on top to garnish.  Serves 2.

 

 

LOBSTER PUMPKIN RISOTTO

Lobster Pumpkin Risotto

The first time that I ever had Lobster Pumpkin Risotto was created by Chef Giancarlo Quadalti who was the executive chef at COCO Cafe, one of the restaurants of Pino Luongo's mini empire back in 1999.  Ever since then, I have been making it and experimenting with various versions of broths/stocks used in the risotto; e.g., vegetable, chicken, and the ultimate pumpkin.

I always found it to be very interesting that lobster is at its peak in the fall, particularly in October, and the best-tasting crustacean is now.   So when steamed lobster chunks are combined with a risotto that has been cooked in a spiced-pumpkin broth with freshly diced pumpkin (also at its peak now) from the farmers' market, it is certainly a comforting dish for a chilly autumn day.  Add to that a drizzling of black truffle oil and it becomes very special.  And since lobster is selling at its lowest price in 20 years, it is a great protein for anyone (who is not allergic to shellfish) to consider.

I've adapted Chef Michael Romano's Pumpkin Risotto recipe from the Union Square Cookbook http://www.amazon.com/Union-Square-Cafe-Cookbook-Restaurant/dp/0060170131/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1350835587&sr=1-1&keywords=union+square+cafe+cookbook, added cooked lobster and drizzled black truffle oil to complete the dish. 

The first step is to make a spiced-pumpkin broth/stock that is used to cook the risotto.  In lieu of using canned pumpkin, I prefer to use a fresh pumpkin from the farmers' market for the pulp and the rest of the pumpkin for the risotto. Steaming the pumpkin cuts down on the sodium content from the canned version. It is more work, but certainly worth the extra effort.  Finally, I'm using black truffle oil as a garnish and to keep the food cost within the 25%-range.  But, if lobster is selling for $4.50-$5.00 per pound, maybe I could get fresh truffles?   

STEAMED PUMPKIN

Pumpkins at Chelsea Market

A five-pound pumpkin could be used to make both the puree for the broth and for the diced pumpkin that is used in the risotto.  Half of the pumpkin, when steamed, would yield about 2 cups of mashed pumpkin puree.  The rest is for the risotto.

Cut pumpkin in half.  Remove seeds, pulp, and stringy portion. Cut into small pieces and peel. Place half of the diced pumpkin into a steamer or metal colander which will fit in a covered pot (Reserve the rest of the diced pumpkin for the risotto).  Put the diced pumpkin over boiling water, cover, and steam for about 50 minutes, or until tender. Mash, purée in a blender or food processor, or put through a food mill.

PUMPKIN BROTH

 (Yield: 7-8 cups)
1 Tbs unsalted butter
3/4 cup onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1/3 cup celery, thinly sliced
1 leek, washed and thinly sliced, white and light green parts only
2 cups pumpkin puree (alternate is a can of pumpkin puree 15-16 oz)
8 cups chicken stock, preferably home made
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
1/2 tsp allspice berries
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 1/2" cinnamon stick
2 Tbs maple syrup

RISOTTO

(Serves 4)

1/4 cup olive oil
1 3/4 cups Arborio rice
1 1/2 cups diced (1/2 inch) fresh pumpkin
1/2 cup dry white wine
6-7 cups pumpkin broth
1 Tbs minced fresh sage
1/4 tsp Kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly grated black pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 Tbs fresh parsley

3 tsp clarified butter (if needed)

LOBSTER

Dice cooked lobster tail and claw meat from 1 1/2# - 2# lobster, about 1 cup, warmed
Lobster bodies (for garnish)
1 ounce truffle oil (optional)

PREPARATION OF PUMPKIN BROTH
In a large stock pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery and leek; sauté until tender and moist, about 10 minutes. Stir in the pumpkin puree and continue cooking for 2-3 minutes. Add the chicken stock, bay leaf, spices, and maple syrup. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 45 minutes. Pour the broth through a fine mesh strainer. In the same saucepan, heat the pumpkin broth to a simmer.

PREPARATION OF RISOTTO

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a separate, 3-quart heavy saucepan or skillet. Add the rice and diced pumpkin and stir until mixture is coated with oil. Add the white wine and stir constantly until all the wine has been absorbed by the rice.  Start to ladle 1/2 cup of hot pumpkin broth into the pan and stir until it is absorbed. Continue with the rest of the broth, adding 1/2 cup at a time and letting each addition be absorbed completely into the rice before adding more liquid.  This usually takes about 30-45 minutes.  Finish the risotto by stirring in the salt, pepper, and the Parmigiano. Swirl in the clarified butter.  

TO FINISH

Lightly fold in the diced cooked lobster meat into the risotto.  Remove from pan and place on a serving platter.  Garnish with lobster bodies (optional). Drizzle with black truffle oil (also optional) and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

LOBSTER STOCK

Steamed Lobsters at Lobster Place

Recently, we visited Lobster Place in Chelsea Market and bought some fully-cooked lobsters which we brought home to eat. http://www.lobsterplace.com/ 

In my opinion, Lobster Place has the best lobsters outside of New England.  With a name like that, one would think so.  I haven't had lobster since last fall and several days preceding my visit to the Market, I had a number of conversations with my friends about lobster. One told me about a phenomenal lobster and clam bake on the beach in Rhode Island.  That did it.  I needed to get some lobster.  And what better place to go other than Lobster Place?  



However, Lobster Place has too many beautiful proteins that I can't resist, but I'll keep my focus on lobster (stock) for now.

After enjoying the richness of the lobster meat, I saved the leftover bodies to use for a lobster stock. 

Lobster Bodies in the Pan

I always make my own stocks and broths from scratch and using lobster bodies is no different then using the carcass from a roasted chicken to make a chicken stock.  This was a perfect time to explore and create, so I did a little research and put together a recipe for a lobster stock.  I added and omitted ingredients and made a stock that resulted in one with a full lobster flavor and a hint of sweetness yet a little tartness, too.  The aroma and taste made me feel like I was still at Lobster Place.  I know.  Some people don't like the smell of food--let alone seafood--permeating their kitchen.  I do. 

Add Seaweed Before Simmering

The stock could be used for risotto, for fish sauces or as a broth for soup.  Also, I would think, that it could be an excellent choice to use when steaming live lobsters.  Haven't done that (yet) but will give it a try.  Since this made four quarts of stock, I certainly will have enough to experiment with. 

Bodies and shells from two 2-pound lobsters

4 Tablespoons olive oil

2 cups onions, chopped

3 cups celery, chopped

3 cups carrots, chopped

1/2 leek, chopped

1 6 oz. can tomato paste

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 fennel bulb, chopped

6 sprigs of fresh parsley

4 bay leaves

1/2 cup dry sherry

1 cup of fresh seaweed*

Kosher salt, to taste

5 quarts of water

Break the lobster shells into pieces.  Open the bodies and remove the gray gills. Remove the sand sac from between the eyes. Crush the bodies.

Heat olive oil in stockpot.  Sauté the onions, celery, carrots and leek over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes.  Add the tomato paste and cook for about 1-2 minutes. Add the lobster shells and crushed bodies and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Then add the garlic and fennel. Mix well and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Add the parsley, bay leaves, and then the dry sherry. Mix well and cook until the alcohol burns off, about 3-4 minutes. Add about 5 quarts of water to cover all ingredients by2-3 inches.  Finally, add the seaweed and bring to a boil.  Turn down heat and simmer gently for two hours.  Taste and add salt as desired.   Let stock cool and then remove the lobster shells/bodies and produce components.  Then strain the liquid through a chinoise or a china cap lined with cheesecloth or a coffee filter.

Pour stock into quart-sized containers. Label and date.  The stock should keep for up to one week in the fridge or 6 months in the freezer.

*Available from the fish market

Two Seafood Pasta Dishes

I love seafood..so here are two seafood/pasta recipes that I came up with. They are fun to make and flavorful. Great for a crowd gathering or a Sunday.

Lobster and Crab Ravioli in Marinara Sauce

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp of sweet butter
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
5-6 minced garlic cloves3-4 anchovy fillets
2 28-oz cans whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, drained
1 28-oz can of tomato puree1 cup of full-bodied red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon
1 cup of water
2 Tablespoons fresh oregano
1/2 c. cut fresh parsley
12 lobster ravioli
12 crab ravioli
½ cup shredded basil
½ pound medium shrimp
2-4 Alaskan king crab legs – steamed and cooked

Preparation:
Make Sauce: Combine butter and oil, add garlic until fragrant, then anchovies and allow them to dissolve. Add tomatoes, puree, wine, water, oregano, and parsley. Mix together and cook until boiling, then simmer for about ½ hour. Add shrimp and cook until done, Add crab legs and cook until heated through. Toss in shredded basil.

Separately, boil both the lobster and crab raviolis. Drain raviolis and combine on plate; top with sauce & shrimp and crab legs. Left over sauce can be frozen.

Serves 4-6


Pink and Black Pasta Di Mara
We're using a combination of two flavored fettuccines--one is black (squid) and one is pink (salmon). The sauce is a spicy pink vodka sauce, topped with lobster claws, lobster tails, shrimps and Alaskan king crab legs and some peas for garnish.
Servings: This could serve 4-6 people.

Ingredients:
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
4-5 minced garlic cloves1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 28-oz can crushed Italian plum tomatoes
1 28-oz can tomato puree1/2 c. vodka3/4 c. light cream 1/2 c. cut fresh parsley1 lb. jumbo shrimp2 1- 1 1/2-lb. lobsters 2-4 crab legs – steamed and cookedl lb. black fettuccini or linguini1 lb. salmon fettuccini or linguini (home-made or store bough or use plain)
1 cup cooked peas (from frozen or fresh)

Preparation:

Make Sauce: Combine oil, garlic, crushed red pepper and cook until garlic is golden. Add tomatoes and puree. Mix together and cook for about ½ hour. Then add vodka and cream and heat. Add lobster first then shrimp and cook until done (about 4 & 3 minutes).
Make Pastas. Cook both pastas in separate pots, until al dente'. Also, cook crab legs separately in boiling water until heated through. Drain pastas and combine on plate; top with sauce & lobster & shrimp and crab legs. Garnish with parsley and peas.As a variation, could also add scallops / clams.If salmon fettuccini cannot be found, then plain fettuccini could work here, but it is important to keep the black fettuccini as the base.