Macaroni and Cheese

Macaroni &Cheese

I could say that there are as many Mac & Cheese recipes out there as there are recipes for roasted chicken, meat loaf, or chicken soup, to name a few.  These are considered some main comfort foods and have been appearing on many restaurants’ menus during the past several years.   Although I grew up as a child consuming the “mac & cheese” from a blue box that used to cost $1.00 for three boxes – I never made a home-made dish.    Something I didn’t really think about ever making at all.  Actually, not at all.  Until yesterday.

After spending a day at the International Hotel, Motel, and Restaurant Show at the Javits Center in NYC, and after enjoying lunch at Spice Market in the late afternoon, come evening, we were hungry.  And, since I was out all day, I didn’t replenish the proteins or produce in the fridge.  So, what should I make?  Okay…after looking in the fridge at the cheddar cheese, milk, butter and two black truffles in a jar that were left over from another meal, I thought about mac & cheese, with truffles, of course.  And the cabinet held a half a pound of egg noodles left over from last week’s chicken stock and soup.  Perfect.  So, I pulled out my yellow Gourmet Cookbook and modified a classic with ingredients that I had on hand…and it was unbelievably good.

For the topping:

1 Tablespoon of unsalted melted butter

1 cup of panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

1 cup of extra sharp cheddar cheese, grated on the traditional stainless steel hand held grater—avoid grating knuckles.

For the cheese sauce and macaroni:

2 tablespoons of melted unsalted butter

1 tablespoon of arrowroot (arrowroot is better than flour, IMO, as a thickening agent to make a roux; also, better to digest, I’ve been told)

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup milk

½ cup of cream cheese (yes, cream cheese, which is always on hand for a bagel…and since I had no heavy cream on hand)

2 cups of coarsely grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, coarse, country style—my favorite. Not that yellow stuff they put on hot dogs.

Dash of salt

Finely ground crushed fresh black pepper

2 truffles, finely chopped

Truffle oil – about 2 tablespoons, for drizzling

½ pound of egg noodles (or whatever is in the cabinet left over from a pasta dish or any macaroni-type meal).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter a shallow baking dish.  A two- quart dish worked for this recipe. Adjust accordingly for the amount of m&c that you are making.

For the topping:  Stir together the butter, panko and grated cheddar cheese in a bowl until well combined.

For the sauce:  Melt butter in a heavy pot.  Whisk in arrowroot and red pepper flakes and cook, whisking for a few minutes to make a roux.  Whisk in milk slowly.  Bring sauce to a boil, whisking constantly.  Simmer for three minutes.  Stir in cream cheese, cheddar cheese, mustard, chopped truffles, salt and pepper.  Remove from heat.

Cook the macaroni in salted water until al dente.  Reserve ½ cup of pasta cooking water and drain macaroni.

Stir together macaroni, reserved cooking water and sauce in a large bowl; transfer to baking dish.

Drizzle truffle oil over macaroni and sprinkle topping evenly over macaroni.

Bake until top is warmed through….not tough or dry….about 20 minutes

Spinach Salad

This is a recipe that was included in a teakwood salad bowl set I received as a wedding gift in 1978 (I was 19).  Needless to say, the marriage didn’t last.  However, the recipe is still in its original “paper” (paper? what’s that?) form and tucked away in a 3” x 5 ½” plastic recipe box that I still have from when I was 13 years old.  I modified the recipe and made it for years and always received many compliments.  That was “back in the day” during the time period way before I started experimenting and creating cuisines from “around the world.” 

Recently, after purchasing a beautiful bunch of fresh spinach from the produce market, I revisited the recipe. I don’t use bacon, so it’s vegetarian friendly.  Instead, I use red onions (yes, red onions), which are finely diced into ¼ inch pieces, then rinsed under cold water and drained and squeezed through paper towels to remove the water.  This takes out the “tartness” of the onion but still keeps the flavor.

1 pound of raw spinach

Dash of Kosher salt (my dash = 0.0125 grams)

3 cloves of garlic, minced or smashed – whatever you like

2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice

6 Tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

½ pound of raw button  mushrooms, sliced (if you want to, get exotic with the mushrooms, then go for it)  -- I you don’t like “a lot” of mushrooms, use about a cup of sliced versus the ½ pound

½ cup of red onion- finely chopped into ¼ inch pieces.  Rinse onions under water and drain with paper towels. 

Wash spinach well. Of course, we know this today; this is from 1978.  Cut away tough stems.  Drain spinach leaves and chill in damp clean cloths—again circa’78.  Today, we use a salad spinner and then let spinach sit in the fridge to chill.

Sprinkle bottom of the salad bowl with salt and then rub with garlic.  Keep garlic in the bowl if you’re bold.  If not, remove it.  This will just give a “hint” of garlic flavor.  Add lemon juice and olive oil and chill the bowl for about 30 minutes.  Tear spinach leaves into bit size pieces.  Add spinach to chilled bowl.  Add sliced mushrooms and red onion.  Toss lightly.  Serves 4.

Wasabi Mashed Potatoes

With the influx of “fusion” cuisine during the past decade, or more likely almost two decades, it’s amazing to experience the robust and unique flavors that many talented chefs have incorporated into certain foods that were once only a standard side dish at the dinner table.  I know, we’re getting tired of the term “fusion,” but let’s look at the simple side dish of mashed potatoes, which are now available in a variety of flavors.  Who would have thought that an effortless combination of potatoes, milk and butter would turn into a worldly cuisine incorporating ingredients such as ginger, jalapeno, eggplant, spinach or chocolate (well maybe not…or maybe so)?  The list is endless as to what could be added to this “simple” side dish that was once only “dressed” with gravy, typically from a can, nonetheless.  Remember that?  Anyway, after eating basic mashed potatoes (sans gravy) for many years growing up as a child, today, one of my favorite “flavored” mashed potatoes is made with wasabi root.  I can’t even count the number of restaurants that started serving this alternative exotic-sounding starch on their menus after the Nobu invasion in the late 1990’s. It is very good.  If done well.

The potatoes should be made with the real wasabi root, however.  NOT the powder, which could cause the potatoes to have a “plastic, artificial taste.”  If real wasabi root is unavailable, then the paste would suffice (sort of).  Again, stay AWAY from powered wasabi.  Here goes…

Wasabi Mashed Potatoes:

2 pounds baking potatoes (russets), peeled and cut into 2 inch dice

½  cup milk – warmed

4 ounces butter, cut into pieces

About 1 ½ - 2 tablespoons freshly grated wasabi root (alternatively use about 1 tablespoon of wasabi paste; don’t use powder)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the potatoes in salted, boiling water until done. Pass through a food mill or ricer. Whisk in warmed milk and butter.  Stir in freshly grated wasabi root (or wasabi paste). Stir until well incorporated.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Yesterday, Michael Symon was in New York for a cooking demonstration and promoting his new book, “Michael Symon’s Live to Cook.”

Michael told the audience that his mom was of Italian and Greek heritage who loved to cook, always from scratch. His dad’s roots are from the Ukraine. So, his cuisine has a Greek, Italian, and Slovakian flair. (The Slovakian explains his expertise at pierogi, I guess). He is a supporter of cooking with salt and more salt, pork, and fresh ingredients. He made a breaded pork chop with a side of fresh greens dressed in a lemon vinaigrette.

After his demo, I chatted with Michael as he signed his book for me. Also, I had brought along the brochure from the Scottsdale Celebrity Chef Golf Invitational which was held at Greyhawk Golf Club (Phil Mickelson’s place) in April 2003. Michael was one of the celebrity chef golfers playing in that tournament.

We rode together in the van transporting the golfers, chefs, and spectators (I was the latter) from the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort at Gainey Ranch to the golf club. I had always remembered Michael’s deep laugh and that he had a restaurant in Cleveland. Back then, I had “no clue” who he was and the only celebrity chef’s name that I recognized was Bobby Flay, so I followed his foursome. (Tom Colicchio also played in that tournament and had a full head of hair at the time). Again, this event happened way before Top Chef, Iron Chef or Chef of the Future (well, Chef of the Future is from the old Honeymooners). Anyway….getting back on track. Yesterday, I learned that Michael “took all of Bobby Flay’s money that day.” He smiled as he told me that while signing the golf brochure. I also learned that Michael has a nine handicap in golf. I followed Bobby’s foursome for several holes, and now I know “why” Michael took all of Bobby’s money that day.

So, after the book (and golf brochure) signing yesterday, I perused the golf brochure some more which featured recipes from each Chef who participated in the tournament. Michael Symon’s recipe for Lobster Pierogi is in the golf brochure.

Lobster Pierogi

½ cup sour cream
6 Tbs. unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 Tbs. minced chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 large Yukon gold potato (1/2 pound)
2 Tbs. half-and-half or heavy cream
4 oz. cooked lobster meat, cut into 1/4 –inch pieces

In a medium bowl, combine sour cream with 4 Tbs. butter, egg, chives, 1 Tbs. of salt and 1 tsp of pepper. Using your hands work in the flour. Turn dough out onto work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Shape dough into two 6-inch disks. Wrap in plastic and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, boil potato in water until tender, about 20 minutes; drain. Peel and press through ricer or sieve into medium bowl. Stir in remaining 2 Tbs. of butter and half-and half, then add the lobster meat. Season with salt and pepper and cool.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of dough to a 15-inch round about 1/8-inch thick. Using 3-inch biscuit cutter cut out 12 to 15 rounds. Brush each with water and spoon 1 scant Tbs. of lobster filling in center. Fold dough over to form half moons, pressing out air; press and crimp edges to seal. Arrange on baking sheet with wax paper.

Bring pot of salted water to boil. Drop sealed pierogies into boiling water. Remove once they float. Saute’ boiled pierogies in butter until golden brown.

Garnish with chopped chives and sour cream.

Vong Restaurant NYC is Closing on Nov 7

I am deeply saddened to hear that the Vong restaurant in New York City will close its doors on Saturday, November 7. Jean-Georges Vongerichten took on the City by storm when he opened the Thai/French Fusion concept 18 years ago. Another flagship restaurant becomes a victim of the ailing economy.

I remember first dining at Vong in 1999. My favorite dishes were the Black Plate and the Chicken and Coconut Milk Soup. Also, we cannot forget the Sticky Rice Wrapped in a Banana Leaf. All of which, I replicated at home after purchasing the “Jean-Georges Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef” cookbook. The pages are worn and frayed and stained. That’s how I first got introduced to Thai (and Fusion) cuisine and it’s been non-stop for the past decade.

I’ve also had the pleasure of meeting both Pierre Schutz, executive chef at Vong, and Jean-Georges at classes each taught at Degustibus and The New School, respectively. When I mentioned to Jean-Georges that I replicated the Black Plate at home for a New Year’s Eve party, he stepped back and commented, “And you were able to find all of the ingredients? I am very impressed.”

Back then, obtaining the “unique” ingredients was via the Internet or by visiting the Asian Market downtown (which I learned was easier than the Internet). My local A&P did not sell lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves or nam pla. Still doesn’t.

The Black Plate consisted of crab spring rolls with a tamarind dipping sauce; prawn satays with fresh oyster sauce; lobster and daikon rolls and a rosemary ginger dip; quail rubbed with Thai spices served atop a crunchy cress salad with fried shallots; and raw tuna and vegetable rolls wrapped in rice paper.

Another favorite was the chicken and coconut milk soup that is made with lemongrass, thick slices of galangal, shiitake mushrooms, and kaffir lime leaves.

Finally, one can’t go wrong with the sticky rice steamed in a banana leaf. The steamed glutinous rice is tossed with nam pla and coconut milk then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed again.

All recipes are in the cookbook and are very easy (I know) to prepare at home. The only drawback is that I have dishes to wash afterwards. Oh, well, guess we all have to pay the price for something.

Bar Boulud and the NYT Review -Two, Stars or Too Stars?

For the past several months, I anxiously awaited Mr. Frank Bruni's reviewof Bar Boulud. It's here! It's after midnight on the eve of food-day (Wednesday) when his review will be published in print, and I'm reading it on-line and taken aback by his comments but also am quite pleased.

Apparently it's the charcuterie that swayed Mr. Bruni into giving the casual off-shoot restaurant from a four-star chef's new attempt at a gig into receiving the two stars versus the "other food selections" on the menu which, according to Mr. Bruni, are "not quite losers, but definitely snoozers."

Furthermore, Mr. Bruni states that Bar Boulud is "better during the day." Also, he finds more glory in "lunchtime sandwiches than in dinnertime lamb stew."

Need I say more?? Note my last comment in my review below. To reiterate, need I say more, or need I say more??

Bar Boulud – Better the Second Time Around

We visited Bar Boulud the first week after it opened and it was not a pleasant experience. The place was crowded and the service was poor. The food was not prepared very well. The escargot was unclean and gritty and accompanied with greasy undercooked potato croquets. The skate was overdone, shriveled and desiccated. My companion’s veal chop was cold. Since the restaurant was brand new, we figured there were several kinks that needed to be worked out.

Last week, we revisited Bar Boulud and were quite pleased this time. The restaurant was not overly crowded and the service was much improved. We had a better table selection, as well. During our first visit, we were seated in the crowded front of the restaurant. Our server had to maneuver between patrons waiting for tables and diners sitting in such close proximity that they had to move in their chairs so he could get through with our plates. This time, we were seated in a booth at the back of the restaurant closer to the stairway that leads into the kitchen. No cold food expected this time.

Pre-fix lunch, which includes an appetizer and entrée, was $29. First, we each started off with a weak bloody Mary. Then came the appetizers. I ordered a shrimp salad. My companion selected the pate grand-pere, which was a duck pâté, from the charcuterie menu. My shrimp salad consisted of an entire head of bib lettuce leaves, which looked extremely clean and fresh, bright green without any dirt or grit. In between all of the foliage, were several dime-size scatterings of tomato confit, which tasted like they were marinated in sherry vinegar, and four medium-size shrimps, which were not chewy or overdone. Along the outer layer of leaves, there was a slight drizzle of tasteless vinaigrette. My companion indicated that his pate was much better—more mature—than last time, where the pate tasted “young.”

Typically, I’m a bit hesitant about ordering certain fish dishes—salmon, in particular because if it’s not prepared properly, it becomes cat food. Hesitantly, I ordered the salmon scaloppini served with broccoli rabe and a ver jus. To my surprise, the salmon was prepared rare enough to my liking where the fish glistened and literally fell apart. Slivered almonds and the ver jus balanced the underlying sweetness of the salmon.

My companion enjoyed his entrée of duck hash that was made with potatoes, onions, and chunks of duck meat and a confit served under a soft-boiled egg. I tasted the hash and although it had a nice combination of flavors, thought it was a bit greasy. He didn’t.

In conclusion, Bar Boulud was much better the second time. And, to me, offers better service at lunch.

Two Seafood Pasta Dishes

I love seafood..so here are two seafood/pasta recipes that I came up with. They are fun to make and flavorful. Great for a crowd gathering or a Sunday.

Lobster and Crab Ravioli in Marinara Sauce

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp of sweet butter
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
5-6 minced garlic cloves3-4 anchovy fillets
2 28-oz cans whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, drained
1 28-oz can of tomato puree1 cup of full-bodied red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon
1 cup of water
2 Tablespoons fresh oregano
1/2 c. cut fresh parsley
12 lobster ravioli
12 crab ravioli
½ cup shredded basil
½ pound medium shrimp
2-4 Alaskan king crab legs – steamed and cooked

Preparation:
Make Sauce: Combine butter and oil, add garlic until fragrant, then anchovies and allow them to dissolve. Add tomatoes, puree, wine, water, oregano, and parsley. Mix together and cook until boiling, then simmer for about ½ hour. Add shrimp and cook until done, Add crab legs and cook until heated through. Toss in shredded basil.

Separately, boil both the lobster and crab raviolis. Drain raviolis and combine on plate; top with sauce & shrimp and crab legs. Left over sauce can be frozen.

Serves 4-6


Pink and Black Pasta Di Mara
We're using a combination of two flavored fettuccines--one is black (squid) and one is pink (salmon). The sauce is a spicy pink vodka sauce, topped with lobster claws, lobster tails, shrimps and Alaskan king crab legs and some peas for garnish.
Servings: This could serve 4-6 people.

Ingredients:
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
4-5 minced garlic cloves1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes1 28-oz can crushed Italian plum tomatoes
1 28-oz can tomato puree1/2 c. vodka3/4 c. light cream 1/2 c. cut fresh parsley1 lb. jumbo shrimp2 1- 1 1/2-lb. lobsters 2-4 crab legs – steamed and cookedl lb. black fettuccini or linguini1 lb. salmon fettuccini or linguini (home-made or store bough or use plain)
1 cup cooked peas (from frozen or fresh)

Preparation:

Make Sauce: Combine oil, garlic, crushed red pepper and cook until garlic is golden. Add tomatoes and puree. Mix together and cook for about ½ hour. Then add vodka and cream and heat. Add lobster first then shrimp and cook until done (about 4 & 3 minutes).
Make Pastas. Cook both pastas in separate pots, until al dente'. Also, cook crab legs separately in boiling water until heated through. Drain pastas and combine on plate; top with sauce & lobster & shrimp and crab legs. Garnish with parsley and peas.As a variation, could also add scallops / clams.If salmon fettuccini cannot be found, then plain fettuccini could work here, but it is important to keep the black fettuccini as the base.